/* Cat Ba Island Guide
   Editorial island look: warm limestone travertine, deep peat ink, emerald lagoon & rainforest tones.
   Harmonized accents: emerald bay, rainforest canopy, golden sand, teak, terracotta, limestone slate. */

:root {
  --ink: #152219;
  --ink-2: #223427;
  --bg: #f5efe4;
  --paper: #f8f2e7;
  --text: #19241b;
  --body-2: #38453a;
  --muted: #616e63;
  --line: #e2d8c7;
  --line-2: #c8bda9;
  --link: #156d61;
  --straw-fill: #d99726;
  --cobalt: #7c4e24;
  --tide: #13716a;
  --forest: #266b40;
  --lantern: #ad4124;
  --plum: #6e442d;
  --display: "Fraunces", Georgia, serif;
  --body: "Be Vietnam Pro", "Segoe UI", system-ui, -apple-system, sans-serif;
  --tone: #13716a;
  --tone-soft: #e2f1ee;
  --tone-light: #72c4bd;
  color-scheme: light;
}

.t-cobalt,  [data-tone="cobalt"]  { --tone: #7c4e24; --tone-soft: #f4eae0; --tone-light: #cca37b; }
.t-tide,    [data-tone="tide"]    { --tone: #13716a; --tone-soft: #e1f1ef; --tone-light: #6dc2bb; }
.t-forest,  [data-tone="forest"]  { --tone: #266b40; --tone-soft: #e1efe6; --tone-light: #81c699; }
.t-straw,   [data-tone="straw"]   { --tone: #94650d; --tone-soft: #f7ecd3; --tone-light: #ebc46d; }
.t-lantern, [data-tone="lantern"] { --tone: #ad4124; --tone-soft: #f6e3dc; --tone-light: #ec8f74; }
.t-plum,    [data-tone="plum"]    { --tone: #6e442d; --tone-soft: #f2e7df; --tone-light: #caa189; }
.t-slate,   [data-tone="slate"]   { --tone: #4a5850; --tone-soft: #e6ece8; --tone-light: #9fb2a6; }

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-padding-top: 84px; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { html { scroll-behavior: smooth; } }
body {
  margin: 0;
  font: 400 17px/1.7 var(--body);
  color: var(--text);
  background: var(--bg);
  overflow-wrap: break-word;
}
body.lock { overflow: hidden; }
img, svg { max-width: 100%; }
a { color: var(--link); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:hover { color: var(--tone); }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--straw-fill); outline-offset: 2px; }
.i { width: 18px; height: 18px; flex: none; vertical-align: middle; }
.defs { position: absolute; width: 0; height: 0; overflow: hidden; }
.sr { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.shell { width: 100%; max-width: 1240px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 clamp(16px, 4vw, 32px); }
.skiplink { position: absolute; left: 12px; top: -60px; z-index: 100; background: var(--ink); color: #fff; padding: 10px 16px; }
.skiplink:focus { top: 12px; color: #fff; }

/* ---------- Buttons ---------- */
.btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px;
  background: var(--ink); color: #fff; border: 2px solid var(--ink);
  padding: 11px 18px; font: 600 .95rem/1.2 var(--body); text-decoration: none;
  transition: transform .12s ease, box-shadow .12s ease;
}
.btn:hover { color: #fff; transform: translate(-2px, -2px); box-shadow: 4px 4px 0 var(--tone); }
.btn-line { background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-line:hover { color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- Top bar ---------- */
.topbar { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 40; background: #ffffff; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.topbar-row { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 16px; min-height: 64px; }
.brand { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; flex: none; }
.brand:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.brand-mark { width: 36px; height: 36px; }
.brand-text b { display: block; font: 800 1.28rem/1 var(--display); letter-spacing: .02em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.brand-text small { display: block; margin-top: 3px; font-size: .72rem; line-height: 1.2; color: var(--muted); }
.chapnav { display: none; }
.chapnav ul { display: flex; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.chapnav a {
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; padding: 9px 10px 7px; color: var(--ink);
  font-weight: 600; font-size: .86rem; line-height: 1.2; text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px solid transparent;
}
.chapnav a i { font: 700 .68rem/1.2 var(--display); font-style: normal; color: var(--tone); }
.chapnav-home a i { display: flex; height: .82rem; align-items: center; }
.chapnav-home a i .i { width: 13px; height: 13px; }
.chapnav a:hover, .chapnav a[aria-current] { border-bottom-color: var(--tone); color: var(--ink); }
.topbar-tools { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; margin-left: auto; }
.index-btn, .langs-btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; cursor: pointer;
  font: 600 .9rem/1 var(--body); padding: 10px 14px; border: 2px solid var(--ink);
}
.index-btn { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.index-btn:hover { background: var(--ink-2); }
.langs-btn { background: #ffffff; color: var(--ink); }
.langs { position: relative; }
.langs-menu { position: absolute; right: 0; top: calc(100% + 8px); min-width: 180px; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 6px 0; background: #ffffff; border: 2px solid var(--ink); box-shadow: 6px 6px 0 rgba(26, 36, 28, .18); z-index: 45; }
.langs-menu a { display: block; padding: 7px 16px; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-size: .92rem; }
.langs-menu a:hover, .langs-menu a[aria-current] { background: var(--tone-soft); }
.readbar { height: 3px; }
.readbar span { display: block; width: 0; height: 100%; background: var(--tone); }
@media (min-width: 1180px) {
  .chapnav { display: block; margin-left: auto; }
  .topbar-tools { margin-left: 8px; }
  .index-btn { display: none; }
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
  .brand-text small { display: none; }
  .index-btn span { display: none; }
}

/* ---------- Index overlay ---------- */
.index { position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 60; overflow-y: auto; background: var(--ink); color: #d8e0d9; padding: 18px 0 64px; }
.index[hidden] { display: none; }
.index-top { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 14px; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 22px; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .16); }
.index-title { flex: 1 1 auto; margin: 0; font: 800 1.6rem/1.1 var(--display); color: #fff; }
.index-filter { order: 3; flex: 1 1 100%; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; padding: 0 14px; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .07); border: 1.5px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .3); color: #fff; }
.index-filter input { width: 100%; padding: 12px 0; border: 0; background: transparent; color: #fff; font: 500 1rem var(--body); outline: none; }
.index-filter input::placeholder { color: #8e9e90; }
.index-filter:focus-within { border-color: var(--straw-fill); }
.index-close { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; padding: 10px 14px; border: 0; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); font: 600 .9rem/1 var(--body); cursor: pointer; }
.index-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(210px, 1fr)); gap: 30px 28px; padding-top: 26px; }
.index-col[hidden], .index-col li[hidden] { display: none !important; }
.index-no { margin: 0; font: 800 2.6rem/1 var(--display); color: transparent; -webkit-text-stroke: 1.3px var(--tone-light); }
.index-h { margin: 6px 0 0; font: 800 1.15rem/1.2 var(--display); }
.index-h a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; }
.index-col ul { list-style: none; margin: 10px 0 0; padding: 0; border-top: 2px solid var(--tone-light); }
.index-col li a { display: block; padding: 6px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); color: #c2cbc3; font-size: .94rem; line-height: 1.4; text-decoration: none; }
.index-col li a:hover, .index-col li a[aria-current] { color: #fff; }
.index-col li a[aria-current] { font-weight: 700; }
/* sub-pages sit indented under their parent page */
.index-col ul.index-sub { margin: 0 0 6px 2px; padding: 2px 0 2px 12px; border-top: 0; border-left: 2px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .16); }
.index-sub li a { padding: 4px 0; border-bottom: 0; color: #92a095; font-size: .87rem; }
.index-col ul.index-months { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 6px; }
.index-months li a { padding: 2px 7px; border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .22); font-size: .76rem; }
.index-months li a[aria-current] { background: var(--tone-light); border-color: var(--tone-light); color: var(--ink); }
.index-foot { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 10px 20px; margin-top: 36px; padding-top: 18px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .16); font-size: .9rem; }
.index-foot a { color: #fff; }
.index-langs { display: inline-flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 12px; }
@media (min-width: 760px) {
  .index-filter { order: 0; flex: 0 1 380px; }
}

/* ---------- Page layout ----------
   One simple grid on every subpage: chapter navigation on the left, page header and content on the right.
   Phones: header, then the folded navigation, then the content. */
.layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); grid-template-areas: "head" "rail" "body"; row-gap: 22px; padding-top: 24px; padding-bottom: 44px; }
.layout-wide { grid-template-areas: "head" "body"; }
.page-head { grid-area: head; min-width: 0; }
.article { grid-area: body; min-width: 0; }
.rail { grid-area: rail; display: grid; gap: 10px; min-width: 0; align-content: start; }

/* ---------- Page header ---------- */
.chart .land path { fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: .9; }
.crumbs ol { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px 8px; list-style: none; margin: 0 0 16px; padding: 0; font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: "/"; margin-right: 8px; color: var(--line-2); }
.crumbs a { color: var(--muted); }
.head-chap { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; margin: 0 0 12px; color: var(--tone); font: 700 .78rem/1.2 var(--body); letter-spacing: .13em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.head-chap span { padding: 4px 7px; background: var(--tone); color: #fff; font-family: var(--display); letter-spacing: 0; }
.page-head h1 { max-width: 22ch; margin: 0 0 16px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 clamp(2rem, 1.3rem + 2.6vw, 3.2rem)/1.08 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.015em; }
.head-lead { max-width: 64ch; margin: 0 0 18px; color: var(--body-2); font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 1rem + .3vw, 1.2rem); }
.head-meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.head-meta li { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 7px; padding: 5px 10px; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--paper); font-size: .82rem; color: var(--body-2); }
.head-meta .i { width: 16px; height: 16px; color: var(--tone); }

/* fact sheet: a compact grid of key facts under the page header */
.sheet { margin: 24px 0 0; overflow: hidden; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-top: 4px solid var(--tone); }
.sheet-h { margin: 0; padding: 9px 16px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--ink); font: 800 .74rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.sheet dl { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); margin: 0 0 0 -1px; }
.sheet dl div { margin-top: -1px; padding: 9px 12px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 1px solid var(--line); }
@media (min-width: 640px) { .sheet dl { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); } .sheet dl div { padding: 10px 16px; } }
.sheet dt { color: var(--muted); font-size: .72rem; line-height: 1.4; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.sheet dd { margin: 3px 0 0; color: var(--ink); font-size: .95rem; font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.4; }

/* both rail blocks: collapsible boxes on phones, open columns on desktop */
.rail details { border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); background: var(--paper); padding: 0 16px; }
.rail summary { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; padding: 12px 0; cursor: pointer; list-style: none; color: var(--ink); }
.rail summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.rail summary::after { content: "+"; margin-left: auto; font: 700 1.2rem/1 var(--body); }
.rail details[open] summary::after { content: "–"; }

/* chapter navigation */
.cnav summary { font: 800 1.05rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.cnav summary i { flex: none; padding: 3px 6px; background: var(--tone); color: #fff; font: 700 .74rem/1.2 var(--display); font-style: normal; }
.cnav ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.cnav > details > ul { padding-bottom: 12px; }
.cnav a { display: block; padding: 6px 8px 6px 12px; border-left: 3px solid var(--line); color: var(--body-2); font-size: .92rem; line-height: 1.35; text-decoration: none; }
.cnav a:hover { border-left-color: var(--tone); color: var(--ink); background: var(--tone-soft); }
.cnav a.in-path { border-left-color: var(--tone); color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }
.cnav a[aria-current] { border-left-color: var(--tone); background: var(--tone-soft); color: var(--ink); font-weight: 700; }
.cnav .cnav-hub a { color: var(--tone); font-size: .76rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.cnav .cnav-hub a.in-path { border-left-color: var(--line); }
.cnav ul ul { margin: 2px 0 4px 12px; }
.cnav ul ul a { padding-top: 4px; padding-bottom: 4px; font-size: .86rem; }
.cnav-months { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 3px; margin: 4px 0 6px 15px; }
.cnav-months a { padding: 3px 0; border: 1px solid var(--line); text-align: center; font-size: .76rem; }
.cnav-months a:hover { border-color: var(--tone); }
.cnav-months a[aria-current] { border-color: var(--tone); background: var(--tone); color: #fff; }

/* on this page */
.toc summary { font: 800 .76rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.toc ol { list-style: none; margin: 0 0 12px; padding: 0; }
.toc a { display: block; padding: 6px 0 6px 12px; border-left: 2px solid var(--line); color: var(--muted); font-size: .88rem; line-height: 1.4; text-decoration: none; }
.toc a:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.toc a[aria-current] { border-left-color: var(--tone); color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

@media (min-width: 1024px) {
  .layout { grid-template-columns: 240px minmax(0, 780px); grid-template-areas: "rail head" "rail body"; column-gap: 56px; row-gap: 34px; padding-top: 40px; padding-bottom: 64px; }
  .layout-wide { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 860px); grid-template-areas: "head" "body"; }
  .rail { position: sticky; top: 92px; align-self: start; gap: 30px; max-height: calc(100vh - 110px); overflow-y: auto; scrollbar-width: thin; }
  .rail details { border: 0; background: none; padding: 0; }
  .rail summary { border-bottom: 2px solid var(--ink); margin-bottom: 8px; padding-top: 0; pointer-events: none; }
  .rail summary::after, .rail details[open] summary::after { content: none; }
}

/* ---------- Article typography ---------- */
.article p, .article li { max-width: 68ch; }
.article > .part + .part, .article > .short + .part, .article > .wx + .year + .part { margin-top: 46px; }
.article h2 {
  display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 12px; margin: 0 0 16px; padding-top: 16px; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink);
  color: var(--ink); font: 800 clamp(1.45rem, 1.15rem + 1.2vw, 2.05rem)/1.18 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.01em;
}
.article h2 .no { flex: none; min-width: 2ch; color: var(--tone); font: 700 .86rem/1 var(--display); letter-spacing: .04em; }
.article h2 .no .i { width: 20px; height: 20px; }
.article h3 { margin: 26px 0 8px; color: var(--ink); font: 700 1.18rem/1.3 var(--display); }
.article ul { padding-left: 1.15em; list-style: square; }
.article ul li::marker { color: var(--tone); }
.article ol { padding-left: 1.3em; }
.article li { margin: 6px 0; }
.article strong { color: var(--ink); }
.short { margin: 0 0 38px; padding: 16px 20px; background: var(--tone-soft); border-left: 6px solid var(--tone); }
.short-h { margin: 0 0 6px; color: var(--tone); font: 800 .76rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.short p:last-child { margin: 0; font-size: 1.06rem; font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink); }
.callout { position: relative; margin: 22px 0; padding: 14px 18px; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.callout-h { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; margin: 0 0 6px; font: 800 .76rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.callout p:last-child { margin: 0; }
.callout-tip .callout-h { color: var(--forest); }
.callout-warn { padding-left: 30px; }
.callout-warn::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; bottom: 0; width: 12px; background: repeating-linear-gradient(-45deg, var(--ink) 0 6px, var(--straw-fill) 6px 12px); }
.callout-warn .callout-h { color: var(--ink); }

/* steps as a journey line */
.legs { list-style: none; margin: 22px 0; padding: 0; counter-reset: leg; }
.legs li { position: relative; max-width: none; margin: 0; padding: 0 0 22px 48px; counter-increment: leg; }
.legs li::before { content: counter(leg); position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; width: 32px; height: 32px; border: 2px solid var(--ink); background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); font: 800 .92rem/28px var(--display); text-align: center; }
.legs li::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 15px; top: 34px; bottom: 2px; width: 2px; background: repeating-linear-gradient(var(--line-2) 0 4px, transparent 4px 8px); }
.legs li:last-child { padding-bottom: 4px; }
.legs li:last-child::after { display: none; }
.leg-t { margin: 3px 0 4px; color: var(--ink); font-weight: 700; }
.leg-d { margin: 0; color: var(--body-2); }

/* tables */
.tbl { position: relative; margin: 22px 0; overflow-x: auto; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.tbl table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: .92rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.tbl th, .tbl td { padding: 10px 12px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); text-align: left; vertical-align: top; }
.tbl thead th { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; font: 700 .76rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; white-space: nowrap; }
.tbl tbody th { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }
.tbl tbody tr:nth-child(even) { background: #f7f4ec; }
.tbl tbody tr:last-child > * { border-bottom: 0; }

/* pros and cons */
.pc { display: grid; gap: 14px; margin: 22px 0; }
.pc > div { padding: 14px 16px; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.pc-h { margin: 0 0 6px; font: 800 .76rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.pc ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.pc li { display: flex; gap: 10px; margin: 0; padding: 5px 0; font-size: .95rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.pc li .i { margin-top: 3px; }
.pc-yes .pc-h, .pc-yes .i { color: var(--forest); }
.pc-no .pc-h, .pc-no .i { color: var(--lantern); }
@media (min-width: 640px) { .pc { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }

/* page rows */
.rows { list-style: none; margin: 10px 0; padding: 0; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.rows li { max-width: none; margin: 0; }
.rows a { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 16px; padding: 14px 8px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--text); text-decoration: none; transition: background .15s ease; }
.rows a:hover { background: var(--tone-soft); color: var(--text); }
.row-no { flex: none; width: 2.3ch; color: var(--tone); font: 800 1.3rem/1 var(--display); }
.row-body { flex: 1; min-width: 0; }
.row-t { display: block; color: var(--ink); font: 700 1.08rem/1.3 var(--display); }
.row-d { display: block; margin-top: 3px; color: var(--muted); font-size: .9rem; line-height: 1.45; }
.row-go { flex: none; width: 22px; height: 22px; color: var(--tone); transition: transform .15s ease; }
.rows a:hover .row-go { transform: translateX(4px); }
.hub-h { border-top: 0 !important; padding-top: 0 !important; }

/* hotels & booking callouts */
.stays { display: grid; gap: 16px; margin: 22px 0; }
.stay { display: flex; flex-direction: column; padding: 16px 18px 18px; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.stay header { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 12px; }
.stay h3 { margin: 0; color: var(--ink); font: 700 1.12rem/1.25 var(--display); }
.stay-price { flex: none; color: var(--tone); font: 800 .92rem/1 var(--display); letter-spacing: .1em; }
.stay-where { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; margin: 6px 0 8px; color: var(--muted); font-size: .82rem; line-height: 1.4; }
.stay-where .i { width: 15px; height: 15px; color: var(--tone); }
.stay p { font-size: .94rem; line-height: 1.6; }
.stay .btn { margin-top: auto; align-self: flex-start; padding: 9px 14px; font-size: .88rem; }
@media (min-width: 700px) { .stays { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }

.booking-box { position: relative; margin: 24px 0; padding: 18px 20px 20px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); border-left: 6px solid var(--tone); }
.booking-box .booking-kicker { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 7px; margin: 0 0 6px; color: var(--tone); font: 800 .76rem/1.2 var(--display); letter-spacing: .15em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.booking-box .booking-kicker .i { width: 16px; height: 16px; }
.booking-box h3 { margin: 0 0 8px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.22rem/1.25 var(--display); }
.booking-box p { margin: 0 0 14px; color: var(--body-2); font-size: .95rem; line-height: 1.6; }
.booking-actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; align-items: center; }
.booking-note { margin: 10px 0 0 !important; color: var(--muted) !important; font-size: .78rem !important; }

/* questions */
.qa details { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.qa summary { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: flex-start; gap: 16px; padding: 16px 0; cursor: pointer; list-style: none; color: var(--ink); font: 700 1.05rem/1.4 var(--display); }
.qa summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.qa-ic { flex: none; width: 22px; height: 22px; color: var(--tone); transition: transform .2s ease; }
.qa details[open] .qa-ic { transform: rotate(45deg); }
.qa-a p { margin: 0 0 18px; }
.mail a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; font: 800 clamp(1.3rem, 1rem + 1.5vw, 2rem)/1.2 var(--display); color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- Maps ---------- */
.map { height: 380px; background: #ddd9cf; border: 2px solid var(--ink); z-index: 0; }
.map-sm { height: 300px; }
.map-lg { height: clamp(380px, 60vh, 560px); }
.map-xl { height: clamp(420px, 72vh, 700px); }
.map .leaflet-tile-pane { filter: saturate(.7) contrast(1.03); }
.map-note { margin: 6px 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: .78rem; }
.pin-wrap { background: none; border: 0; }
.pin { display: block; width: 18px; height: 18px; background: var(--tone); border: 3px solid #fff; box-shadow: 0 0 0 1.5px var(--ink); transform: rotate(45deg); }
.leaflet-container { font-family: var(--body); }
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper { border: 2px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 2px; box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 rgba(26, 36, 28, .25); }
.leaflet-popup-content { margin: 10px 14px; font-size: .92rem; }
.leaflet-popup-content a { font-weight: 700; }
.leaflet-tooltip.pin-label { border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 0; box-shadow: none; font: 600 .82rem var(--body); color: var(--ink); }
.legend { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin: 0 0 12px; }
.legend-btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; padding: 6px 12px; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink); font: 600 .84rem/1.2 var(--body); cursor: pointer; }
.legend-btn i { width: 10px; height: 10px; background: var(--tone); transform: rotate(45deg); }
.legend-btn[aria-pressed="false"] { opacity: .45; text-decoration: line-through; }

/* ---------- Weather ---------- */
.wx { margin: 0 0 18px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.wx-nums { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
.wx-nums div { padding: 13px 16px; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.wx-nums span { display: block; color: var(--muted); font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.wx-nums b { color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.5rem/1.2 var(--display); }
.wx-meters { display: grid; gap: 8px; padding: 14px 16px; }
.meter { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 4px 10px; font-size: .9rem; }
.meter-l { width: 8.5em; font-weight: 600; color: var(--ink); }
.dots { display: flex; gap: 4px; }
.dots i { width: 13px; height: 13px; border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); background: var(--paper); }
.dots i.on { background: var(--tone); }
.meter-w { color: var(--muted); font-size: .84rem; }
@media (min-width: 560px) { .wx-nums { grid-template-columns: repeat(5, 1fr); } .wx-nums div { border-bottom: 0; } .wx-nums div:last-child { border-right: 0; } .wx-meters { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); } }
@media (min-width: 700px) { .wx-meters { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.year { margin: 0 0 8px; }
.year ol { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.year li { max-width: none; margin: 0; }
.year a { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; padding: 9px 2px; border-right: 1px solid rgba(26, 36, 28, .12); border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(26, 36, 28, .12); color: var(--ink); font-size: .78rem; line-height: 1.35; text-decoration: none; }
.year a:hover { outline: 2px solid var(--ink); outline-offset: -2px; color: var(--ink); }
.year b { font: 800 .98rem/1.3 var(--display); }
.year small { font-size: .68rem; }
.year .s1 a { background: #ecebe6; }
.year .s2 a { background: #dbe4dc; }
.year .s3 a { background: #bed3c4; }
.year .s4 a { background: #95bda1; }
.year .s5 a { background: #67a27b; }
.year .is-on a { outline: 3px solid var(--ink); outline-offset: -3px; }
.year-key { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 6px 14px; margin: 8px 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: .8rem; }
.year-key i { display: inline-block; width: 14px; height: 14px; margin-right: -8px; border: 1px solid rgba(26, 36, 28, .25); vertical-align: -2px; }
.year-key .s1 { background: #ecebe6; } .year-key .s3 { background: #bed3c4; } .year-key .s5 { background: #67a27b; }
@media (min-width: 760px) { .year ol { grid-template-columns: repeat(12, 1fr); } }
.heat-wrap { margin-top: 12px; }
.heat th, .heat td { padding: 8px 5px; text-align: center; white-space: nowrap; font-size: .82rem; }
.heat thead th { padding: 8px 5px; }
.heat thead th a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; }
.heat tbody th { padding-left: 12px; text-align: left; font-size: .84rem; }
.heat tbody tr:nth-child(even) { background: none; }
.heat td.temp { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--lantern) calc(var(--t) * 55%), #fff); }
.heat td.rain { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--tide) calc(var(--r) * 55%), #fff); }
.heat td i { font-style: normal; letter-spacing: -1px; }
.heat .h1 { background: #f3f3f1; } .heat .h2 { background: #e2eedc; } .heat .h3 { background: #c6e0b9; } .heat .h4 { background: #9fcd8d; } .heat .h5 { background: #74b462; }
.heat .c1 { background: #f3f3f1; } .heat .c2 { background: #f8e6d6; } .heat .c3 { background: #f6cfb4; } .heat .c4 { background: #f2ae8f; } .heat .c5 { background: #e9876a; }
.heat-note { color: var(--muted); font-size: .8rem; }

/* ---------- Pager and read next ---------- */
.pager { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; padding-bottom: 36px; }
.pager a { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; flex: 1 1 260px; max-width: 100%; padding: 12px 16px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink); font: 700 1rem/1.3 var(--display); text-decoration: none; transition: transform .12s ease, box-shadow .12s ease; }
.pager a:hover { transform: translate(-2px, -2px); box-shadow: 5px 5px 0 var(--tone); color: var(--ink); }
.pager small { display: block; color: var(--muted); font: 600 .7rem/1.4 var(--body); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.pager-next { justify-content: flex-end; text-align: right; }
@media (min-width: 760px) { .pager a { flex: 0 1 46%; } .pager-next { margin-left: auto; } }
.more { padding-bottom: 56px; }
.more h2 { margin: 0 0 12px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.5rem/1.2 var(--display); }
.rows-more a { padding-left: 14px; border-left: 4px solid var(--tone); }

/* ---------- Footer ---------- */
.foot { overflow: hidden; padding: 44px 0 26px; background: var(--ink); color: #c6d1c8; }
.foot-mark { margin: 0 0 30px; color: transparent; font: 800 clamp(4rem, 17vw, 13rem)/.85 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.02em; text-transform: uppercase; white-space: nowrap; -webkit-text-stroke: 1.5px rgba(255, 255, 255, .32); }
.foot-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(150px, 1fr)); gap: 26px 22px; }
.foot-about { grid-column: 1 / -1; max-width: 64ch; }
.foot-about p { margin: 0; }
.foot-col p { margin: 0; line-height: 1.3; }
.foot-col p a { color: #fff; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; }
.foot-col i { color: var(--tone-light); font: 800 .82rem var(--display); font-style: normal; }
.foot-col ul { list-style: none; margin: 8px 0 0; padding: 0; }
.foot-col li a { color: #a4b3a6; font-size: .87rem; line-height: 1.95; text-decoration: none; }
.foot-col li a:hover, .foot-links a:hover { color: #fff; text-decoration: underline; }
.foot-base { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 10px 24px; margin-top: 36px; padding-top: 18px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .14); font-size: .82rem; }
.foot-base p { margin: 0; max-width: 80ch; }
.foot-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 18px; }
.foot-links a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; }

/* ---------- Home ---------- */
.hero { overflow: hidden; background: var(--paper); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.hero-grid { display: grid; gap: 30px; align-items: center; padding-top: 30px; padding-bottom: 40px; }
.hero-kicker { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; margin: 0 0 16px; color: var(--tide); font: 700 .78rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.hero-kicker::before { content: ""; width: 28px; height: 2px; background: currentColor; }
.hero h1 { margin: 0 0 22px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 clamp(2.6rem, 1.3rem + 5.4vw, 5.2rem)/1.02 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.018em; }
.hero h1 em { font-style: normal; color: var(--tide); }
.hero-lead { max-width: 54ch; margin: 0; color: var(--body-2); font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 1rem + .4vw, 1.28rem); }
.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; list-style: none; margin: 26px 0 0; padding: 0; }
.chips a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; padding: 10px 14px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; text-decoration: none; }
.chips li:first-child a, .chips a:hover { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.chart { margin: 0 auto; width: 100%; max-width: 560px; }
.chart svg { display: block; width: 100%; height: auto; background: var(--paper); }
.chart .frame { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 2; }
.chart .grid { stroke: #e5ded2; stroke-width: 1; }
.chart .land { color: var(--forest); }
.chart .land path { fill: rgba(38, 107, 64, .08); }
.chart .land path.idx { stroke-width: 2; }
.chart .land-2 { color: var(--tide); }
.chart .land-2 path { fill: rgba(19, 113, 106, .09); }
.chart .course { fill: none; stroke: var(--lantern); stroke-width: 2.5; stroke-dasharray: 9 7; }
.chart .buoys circle { fill: var(--straw-fill); stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 2; }
.chart .rose-o, .chart .rose-i { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.4; }
.chart .rose-n { fill: var(--ink); }
.chart .rose-e { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.4; }
.chart text { fill: var(--ink); font: 700 13px var(--display); }
.chart .lbl { fill: var(--muted); font: 500 12px var(--body); letter-spacing: .1em; }
.chart .name { font: 800 22px var(--display); letter-spacing: .32em; }
.chart .name-s { fill: var(--tide); font-size: 14px; }
@media (min-width: 960px) {
  .hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1.05fr .95fr; gap: 48px; padding-top: 56px; padding-bottom: 64px; }
}

.stats { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.stats-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
.stat { padding: 24px 16px 24px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .12); }
.stat b { display: block; color: var(--straw-fill); font: 800 clamp(2rem, 1.5rem + 2vw, 3.3rem)/1 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.02em; }
.stat span { display: block; margin-top: 8px; color: #c6d1c8; font-size: .92rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.stat a { color: #fff; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .stats-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); }
  .stat { padding: 32px 24px 32px 0; border-bottom: 0; }
  .stat + .stat { padding-left: 24px; border-left: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .12); }
}

.sec-head { max-width: 780px; margin: 0 0 28px; }
.eyebrow { margin: 0 0 10px; color: var(--muted); font: 700 .78rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.sec-head h2 { margin: 0 0 12px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 clamp(1.8rem, 1.25rem + 2.1vw, 2.8rem)/1.1 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.012em; }
.sec-head p { margin: 0; color: var(--body-2); }
.book, .home-map, .routes, .areas, .home-qa { padding-top: 60px; padding-bottom: 60px; }
.home-qa { padding-top: 20px; }
.home-qa .qa { max-width: 880px; }
.home-qa .qa h2 { display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: baseline; margin: 0 0 8px; padding-top: 16px; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink); font: 800 clamp(1.5rem, 1.2rem + 1.2vw, 2.05rem)/1.15 var(--display); }
.home-qa .qa h2 .no { color: var(--tone); font: 700 .86rem var(--display); }

.toc-book { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.toc-book > li { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.book-main { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 2px 18px; align-items: center; padding: 18px 0 8px; color: var(--text); text-decoration: none; }
.book-main:hover { color: var(--text); }
.book-no { grid-row: span 3; color: transparent; font: 800 2.7rem/1 var(--display); -webkit-text-stroke: 1.5px var(--tone); transition: color .15s ease; }
.book-main:hover .book-no { color: var(--tone); }
.book-t { color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.35rem/1.2 var(--display); }
.book-d { color: var(--body-2); font-size: .95rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.book-n { color: var(--tone); font-size: .74rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.book-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px; margin: 0 0 18px; }
.book-links a { padding: 3px 9px; background: var(--tone-soft); color: var(--ink); font-size: .84rem; text-decoration: none; }
.book-links a:hover { background: var(--tone); color: #fff; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .book-main { grid-template-columns: 96px 250px 1fr auto; gap: 24px; }
  .book-no { grid-row: auto; }
  .book-links { padding-left: 120px; }
}

.styles { padding: 60px 0; background: var(--paper); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.tabs { display: flex; overflow-x: auto; margin: 0 0 26px; border-bottom: 2px solid var(--ink); scrollbar-width: none; }
.tabs::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
.tabs button { flex: none; margin-bottom: -2px; padding: 12px 18px; background: none; border: 0; border-bottom: 4px solid transparent; color: var(--muted); font: 700 1rem/1.2 var(--display); cursor: pointer; }
.tabs button:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.tabs button[aria-selected="true"] { color: var(--ink); border-bottom-color: var(--lantern); }
.panel { display: grid; gap: 22px; }
.panel[hidden] { display: none; }
.panel h3 { margin: 0 0 10px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.6rem/1.12 var(--display); letter-spacing: -.015em; }
.panel p { margin: 0; color: var(--body-2); }
.panel .rows { margin: 0; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .panel { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.35fr; gap: 48px; } }

.seasons { padding: 60px 0; background: var(--bg); }
.season-cols { display: grid; gap: 16px; margin: 26px 0; }
.season { padding: 18px 20px; background: var(--paper); border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.season-m { margin: 0 0 6px; color: var(--tide); font: 700 .76rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.season h3 { margin: 0 0 8px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.25rem/1.2 var(--display); }
.season p:last-child { margin: 0; font-size: .95rem; }
@media (min-width: 760px) { .season-cols { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } }

.board { background: #111b14; border: 2px solid var(--ink); color: #e4ebe5; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.board-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; grid-template-areas: "from time" "via via" "cost cost"; gap: 2px 14px; align-items: center; padding: 14px 16px; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .1); color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
a.board-row:hover { background: #1c2b20; color: inherit; }
.board-row:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
.board-head { display: none; color: var(--straw-fill); font: 700 .72rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.b-from { grid-area: from; color: #fff; font: 800 1.12rem/1.3 var(--display); }
.b-via { grid-area: via; color: #b0beb2; font-size: .9rem; line-height: 1.45; }
.b-time { grid-area: time; color: var(--straw-fill); font: 700 1.05rem/1.3 var(--display); text-align: right; }
.b-cost { grid-area: cost; color: #b0beb2; font-size: .88rem; }
.b-go { display: none; color: var(--straw-fill); }
.board-head .b-from, .board-head .b-time, .board-head .b-via, .board-head .b-cost { color: inherit; font: inherit; }
@media (min-width: 820px) {
  .board-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.7fr .8fr .9fr 30px; grid-template-areas: "from via time cost go"; gap: 16px; }
  .board-head { display: grid; }
  .b-time { text-align: left; }
  .b-go { display: block; grid-area: go; }
}

.plans { padding: 60px 0; background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.plans .eyebrow { color: #a4b3a6; }
.plans .sec-head h2 { color: #fff; }
.plan-grid { display: grid; gap: 16px; }
.plan { display: block; padding: 20px 22px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--paper); color: var(--text); text-decoration: none; transition: transform .12s ease, box-shadow .12s ease; }
.plan:hover { color: var(--text); transform: translate(-3px, -3px); box-shadow: 8px 8px 0 var(--straw-fill); }
.plan-len { display: block; color: var(--lantern); font: 800 2.4rem/1 var(--display); }
.plan-t { display: block; margin: 6px 0 12px; color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.2rem/1.25 var(--display); }
.plan ol { margin: 0; padding-left: 1.2em; color: var(--body-2); font-size: .92rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.plan li { margin: 5px 0; }
@media (min-width: 760px) { .plan-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } }

.area-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(270px, 1fr)); gap: 14px; }
.area { position: relative; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 4px; padding: 18px 20px 46px; background: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--ink); color: var(--text); text-decoration: none; }
.area:hover { background: #eee5d6; color: var(--text); }
.area-who { color: var(--plum); font: 700 .74rem/1.3 var(--body); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.area-t { color: var(--ink); font: 800 1.25rem/1.25 var(--display); }
.area-d { color: var(--body-2); font-size: .92rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.area > .i { position: absolute; right: 16px; bottom: 14px; color: var(--plum); }

/* ---------- Print ---------- */
@media print {
  .topbar, .index, .rail, .pager, .more, .foot, .map, .map-note, .legend, .contours { display: none !important; }
  body { background: #fff; }
  .sheet { box-shadow: none; }
}